The Art of "Hidden Luxury": Why this Silk Coat is Worth Every Penny

Look at this Duster Coat. A deep, quiet purple Tsumugi silk. It has the dignified presence that only 70-year-old vintage Japanese silk possesses.

But the true value lies "hidden".

【Uramasari: Hidden Luxury】The shock revealed when taken off. This lining design is based on a Samurai warlord's surcoat held in the MoMA collection.

A shocking, vivid red. A massive family crest (Kamon) boldly dyed across the back. This is the traditional Japanese aesthetic of "Uramasari" (Hidden Luxury/Beauty in the Lining).

Historically, Japanese people, even samurai, were outwardly modest, but they poured their ultimate luxury into the linings of their kimonos, visible only to themselves or when taking the garment off. It is the ultimate sophisticated playfulness. When you take off this coat, you reveal a stunning piece of art hidden

within.

Furthermore, this lining holds an incredible story. The vivid red and the crest. The original version of this design was a "Jinbaori" (samurai surcoat) given by a warlord to his subordinate during Japan's Sengoku (Samurai Warring States) period. And that historical original is currently housed in the collection of MoMA (The Museum of Modern Art, New York).

I obtained a scarf from MoMA, which reproduces that exact design, and boldly cut and tailored it as the lining for this coat.

You might be able to buy the scarf at MoMA. But this coat—combining it with 100-year-old vintage Tsumugi silk and transformed using Wasaishi techniques—is the only one of its kind in the world. You are wearing both "Samurai history" and "MoMA art" at the very same time.

 Vintage 70-year-old purple Tsumugi silk. The black side lines are proof of the traditional "Hagi" (joining) technique used to tailor it for modern sizing.

Now, look at the front again. Do you see the black lines running down the sides?

This is not just a design element. This is proof of a Wasaishi's (artisan tailor's) skill.

As I wrote yesterday, traditional kimono fabric is too narrow for modern coat sizes. To create a relaxed silhouette, I used the traditional technique of "Hagi" (joining fabric), adding black silk panels to widen the body. A technical necessity has been transformed into a beautiful design accent.

The front is a testament to technical skill. The back is hidden art. This is not just a coat. It is wearable history and aesthetics.

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